Angora goats need shelter from the elements.  Shorn goats cannot tolerate cold rain and can expire from hypothermia. It is also critical for newborn kids to be sheltered from the elements when they are born.  Their thermostat (temperature regulation system) does not activate for 48 hours.  An enclosed kidding area away from drafts with fresh straw is good for newborn goats.  Also little goat coats can be easily made or acquired to keep newborns warm.  And if you really want to help out, a heat lamp positioned out of the way of the doe’s horns but still low enough to provide warmth, is very advantageous.

Angora goats tolerate heat if they have shade and water.  An angora goat does not perspire, but regulates body temperature through respirations and his horns. The hot blood flows through the goat’s horns and the cooler air cools the blood.  As you know, Angora goats thrive in Texas and Texas IS hot!

Adequate fencing is critical to keep predators out and goats in.  Most angora goats do not jump fences, but they certainly can squeeze through or go under a fence if the grass is greener on the other side.  Also if the goat can get out, a predator can get in.  A good rancher checks the fence lines regularly. Electric fences do not usually work for angoras because their horns and mohair provide insulation agains the electrical current.  However, more than one angora goat producer has told me they have trained their angoras to respect an electric fence.  Shocked once and they learned the producers said.( I tried electric fencing but it kept shorting out on grass.)

The angora goat is a very social animal and does not do well alone.  Please have at least 2 angoras together so they have company. The exception to this, of course, is a sick goat which needs quiet and space to heal. Sometimes, however, if the sick goat needs lots of time to recuperate (for instance to gain weight without competing for feed) a friend is often best to keep her company during recovery.

It is also advisable to divide your goats into various groups according to their ages and sexes so everyone will tend to get along and not bully select members because they are an old goat, smaller, younger,  smaller, intimidated or whatever.  It is OK to put an old grandma in with the doe kids or an old grandpa buck in with the buck kids.  Assuring good nutrition and peace of mind for an older goat who has “paid his due” is a good thing to do.  Being beat up by aggressive younger goats helps no one.

There are exceptions to dividing up the age groups.  One practice is to raise does and their doe kids together and just take the buck kids out. The doe kids get a little extra milk and the does wean the kids naturally.  Of course, if the producer wants to breed the does in the fall, this won’t work because a well nourished doe kid will breed in the fall and kid as she reaches her first birthday.  It is usually advisable to breed angoras as yearlings so they can get more growth on them and kid on their 2nd birthday.  With the demands of her own metabolism, growing mohair, and bodily growth, a pregnant and then lactating kid/yearling is often compromised.  Breeding an angora doe kid can be done successfully if she is growthy, has good constitution and vigor and has superior nutrition. Usually breeding doe kids is best left to experienced producers.

Another exception to separating the goats into like groups is running a select buck with his does year around.  Keeps the buck happy and mellow and if he is a fence climber, will tend to keep him with his does rather than malcontent with big buck associates.  Occasionally here will be an angora buck who will not jump fences but literally climb them to seek does or greener pastures.

Usually the angora goat does not do well in a flock of sheep, herd of cows, or meat goats herd unless the producer is experienced and knows what to look for when mixing groups.  The angora tends to have different nutritional needs and habits and can become shy and unthrifty when placed within these groups.